The Home Mechanic's Automotive Arsenal
Preface
You asked, so we delivered. This is the gear we use for all our automotive, motorcycle, and home projects. We are not professionals by trade, but we have both been wrenching for a very long time and we are fortunate to be able to buy most of the tools we want or sometimes need. This IS mostly an affiliate link list, but it’s also exactly what we use and we didn’t get any of this stuff for free! Dan uses DeWalt, Nick uses Milwaukee, but it’s mainly based on our choice of batteries we already had. Overall we’ve found the Milwaukee stuff to be a tiny bit nicer (and it’s red), but we think both are very good products. One consistent and somewhat unfortunate theme we run into with tools is that you do in fact get what you pay for, with very few exceptions. We do believe there is a sweet spot for home mechanics and yes, we know professional mechanics will likely need and want different tools. This list isn’t for you! This is for us occasional hobby wrenchers, shade tree mechanics, and those of us who are on a budget but still need to fix stuff. Please let us know if you think we should include a tool we haven’t here!
TL;DR: Just Tell Me What I Need Most!
1/4” Impact Driver: DeWalt 1/4 Impact Driver Kit - Specifically, this DeWalt DCF850B. If it’s sold out, you can find it at Home Depot. This is the most versatile tool in my set, and we believe this will be the most used power tool you will likely ever own as it will usually replace your drill as well.
Basic Tool Kit: DeWalt “Costco Special” Took Kit - The Amazon version comes with chrome sockets for $30 more and the Costco version is in black for $99. We actually prefer the chrome sockets as they are easier to see when you drop one, but this is great, basic starter set.
We don’t actually recommend all in one kits, but you need to start somewhere and this is a good start. We don’t recommend them as there are just way too many compromises in these kits unless you spend serious money on an actual pro set from Snap-On, Sonic, etc in the realm of $5k+.
Ratcheting Wrenches: Gearwrench 35720A-02 - We truly believe these will be the tools you use the most out of this whole list, and we think you should spend your money where you spend your time. If you have the cash, we think a reversible set is worth the money, and we can typically find the DeWalt and Gearwrench sets on sale on Slickdeals, especially on Black Friday. Milwaukee, hands down, makes the best non-reversible set with an amazing 2.5 degree arc-swing; half the swing length of the competition, but you’ll pay for it at $250 for the metric set (which is worth it!)
Torque Wrench: DeWalt DWMT75462 - This 1/2 drive torque wrench will do 90% of the work you need a torque wrench for at incredible ~1% accuracy; unmatched at this price point with this warranty.
Screwdrivers: Craftsman Screwdrivers - High quality screwdrivers with all the right features for a bargain price and a lifetime warranty. Color coded handles, useful lengths (including stubby), wrench compatible, and even includes a pick set!
Brake Tools: Ares 18028 / Lang Tools 279-5420 / Performance Tool W80112 - If you only buy one of these, buy the Lang Tools spreader, which will do the job 99% of the time for almost all size brakes. Just be sure to read our notes below about electronic parking brakes!
Oil Filter Wrench and Sockets: Tekton 5866 Wrench / Gearwrench 41890 Sockets - Because being able to change your own oil is something we all need to be able to do, this is the best “kit” for getting it done and will handle almost all passenger vehicles.
Hex and Torx Bits: Neiko Hex, SAE, and Metric - These go hand in hand with the DeWalt impact listed above, and you’ll find uses for these from everything to assembling furniture to putting together racks, to dissembling brake calipers with ease.
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): DeWalt Goggles, NoCry Safety Glasses, Ammex Gloveworks Gloves, Dickies Coveralls - Believe it or not, you can do a lot of damage to yourself by not having just basic safety equipment. Do this right - get used to wearing it and do wear it. Good stuff is comfortable and makes things easier, not a nuisance.
Floor Jack: Pittsburgh 3-Ton Rapid Pump - I’d love to post an affiliate link here, but the fact is Harbor Freight is the way to go until you buy a REALLY high quality jack that’s lightweight and rebuildable like a Pro Eagle, which you can get from our friends at Vogue.
Jack Stands: Torrin BIG RED T43002A Double Locking Jack Stands - You can get away with just about any jack stands as long as they are the proper weight rating for your vehicle. The Torrin jack stands we have listed here are double locking, for an extra margin of safety that we think is worth it! As far as Harbor Freight goes, two kinds of jack stands were recalled in 2020, then recalled AGAIN! So yeah, we’re done with HF when it comes to stands. For such a vital piece of equipment for safety, we wouldn’t use them even if they gave them to us.
Power Tools
1/4” Impact Driver - DeWalt DCF850B - Unlike the other tools on this list, this is an impact driver, meaning it will take quick change bits and socket adapters. Perfect for tight spaces where you need to drive a bolt or screw, in a very light, versatile tool that can replace a drill for most applications if you buy the right quick-change bits. If it’s sold out, you can find it at Home Depot. This is the most versatile tool in my set, and we believe this will be the most used power tool you will likely ever own.
1/2” High Torque Impact Wrench - Milwaukee 2757-20 / DeWalt DCF899B - A high-torque, 1/2” impact wrench. If you ever ask us what our favorite tool is, it’s this one. It’s not because we use it all that often, but because when you’re really frustrated with something that won’t come loose, this will get it loose. The next step is a torch. Impact sockets are REQUIRED and we have them listed below; we’ve cracked normal ones!
3/8” Cordless Ratchet - Milwaukee 2557-20- This little ratchet fits in tight spaces, has a surprising amount of torque, lasts a long time, and is perfect for tightening or loosening most nuts and bolts to a good pre-torque setting. We found the DeWalt equivalent way too bulky and awkward to use compared to the Milwaukee and don’t recommend it.
3/8” Stubby Impact - DeWalt DCF913B / Milwaukee “Stubby” - Milwaukee was the absolute king of these until this year, and now DeWalt has also (finally) stepped up to the plate. Take your pick, they’re both great, and probably will be one of your favorites tools if you do a lot of suspension work due to it’s small form factor and significant amount of torque. Note the Milwaukee also uses the same battery as the 3/8” ratchet.
1/2” Hammer Drill - DeWalt DCD999B - Between the stubby impact and this Hammer Drill, you can do almost everything. We recommend a Hammer Drill over a regular drill mainly because you can also use it to drive screws into masonry if you ever need to and the handle gives you serious drilling strength into steel. That said, this thing is POWERFUL. Don’t say we didn’t warn you the first time you drive a screw an inch deeper than you intended.
Pressure Washer - Simpson MSH3125 - Take it from our mistakes, you want a few simple things in a home pressure washer - a Honda engine and 3,000+ PSI. You won’t need that pressure for your car, but you’ll want it for that oil you’re going to spill on your driveway. This one checks all the right boxes, unless…
If you live in a suburban area and use a pressure washer often, you will want to go electric so your neighbors don’t hate you. Quieter, less maintenance, and just as much pressure, the new brushless electric pressure washers have come a very long way. The AR Blue Max 3,000 PSI washer from Griots Garage is our upgrade pick and our code RCS10 still gives you 10% off.
If you are annoyed as we are with the unruly pressure washer hose that always feels like it’s frozen, upgrade to the Flexzilla hose. It’s even more flexible than a garden hose and makes the pressure washing much easier.
Rotary Tool - Dremel 7760 - We don’t find we often need a Dremel for a long period of time, so the cordless one usually does the job. We actually prefer the now discontinued 8050 model if you can find it. The little stand made it especially handy to have ready to go on the bench. The 8220 is our upgrade pick with a removable battery and much more power, but we have found when it comes to car repair we really only use it for light cleaning with it’s wire brush 99% of the time, making the upgrade rarely worth it for most people.
Air Compressor - DeWalt 165 psi, 6 Gallon Pancake Compressor - This particular topic is extremely subjective, so we think this is the bare minimum you should get for automotive work. You may not think you even need an air compressor, but they are just so handy for quick tire fills, air tools, and blowing things out that it’s hard to imagine a proper garage without one. The best bang for the buck we came across is this DeWalt compressor, but it’s more about the sweet spot for size and maximum pressure than name brand here. A minimum of a 6 gallon tank is just about right for short bursts of power needed for most air tools, and the DeWalt has a higher than average rating of 165psi, making it ideal for its small size. If you have the space, you’ll always be glad you bought a bigger, more powerful compressor if you have the budget. If you do woodworking, especially trim nailing, then the smaller and more portable compressor may be beneficial to you vs dragging a hose from the garage through the house.
Air Hammer - Ingersoll Rand 123MAXK - I used to use a jaw puller or a big ass mallet for stuck brake discs and ball joints, now I have this and thought to myself WHY DID I NOT BUY THIS 20 YEARS AGO.
Hammer Head - The Mayhew Pro 6” Hammer is the one you need to hit brake discs loose, but I would encourage you to look online at the available attachments as you may find many additional use cases for an air hammer you never considered.
Hand Tools
Starter Tool Kit: DeWalt DWMT72165 - This is the most complete, basic tool kit we can find, but it might not be the best one for you. This set includes a wide range of SAE and Metric sockets and wrenches, hex bits, hex keys, wrenches, and lifetime warranty. The things we don’t like in this kit: this kit is cumbersome and heavy to move, the socket wrenches really are low end as far as features (low tooth count, heavy, large handles) but they are good build quality, and the wide range of SAE sizes you will very rarely use on a modern vehicle. Again, this kit is HEAVY and cumbersome and won’t be a “grab and go” kit. This is the kit you want in your garage that you plan to leave in your garage.
For literally half the money, we also recommend the DeWalt Mechanics tool kit you can buy at Costco year round for $100 (it is only available in Costco stores, not on their website). The Costco version is exclusively black, but it is the same set as the DWMT81534 in Chrome on Amazon for $30 more. This kit offers a similar selection of sizes, with a few less wrenches, sockets, and an added screwdriver. We don’t like that the Costco set is black, making it difficult to see when it gets dark out if you don’t have a bright space to work, but other than that it is the same high quality at a very affordable entry level cost.
“EDC” Tool Kit: Husky 46 Piece Kit - This is the “Every Day Carry” tool kit I keep in all my cars. This is a cheap, standard quality tool kit that you won’t use for any tough jobs, but it does have the most common socket sizes, bits, and an adjustable wrench. I’ve used this kit extensively over the years and it’s the first purchase I make if I buy a car out of state so I have some tools with me. For $20, it’s worth it and you’ll be glad it’s there if you ever need to change a battery or do an emergency repair.
Ratcheting Wrenches: GearWrench 35720A-02 - This one is kind of controversial as we believe there are much better ratcheting wrench sets out there, but this is a good basic starter set for a low cost of entry ($60 at the time of writing). I use these more than any other hand tool, so I did step up for a nicer, reversible DeWalt set in Metric and SAE ($130 per set) and found them worth every penny.
Standard Wrenches: Tekton 90192 - This set includes SAE and Metric, and they are in canvas rolls vs a plastic holder, which makes them easier to transport. If you have a pegboard wall you may want the plastic holders and go for the extended size sets (6-24mm), but I like to be able to grab my wrenches and go for trips. Another nice thing about this set is that the standard sets go pretty large at 22mm and 1”. If you bought the DeWalt tool set above, just get the metric wrenches unless you have a specific use case for SAE.
Upgrade or Additional Pick: Capri Tools XT90 WaveDrive Pro Set - if you work on a lot of machines with older, rounded nuts and bolts, then a standard wrench set will often round off your nut and bolt heads. I splurged and ordered up this set after hours of researching and these were worth the money. Unfortunately they’re not offered in the extended sizes of normal wrench sets, but they really grip onto nuts and bolts like no other set I have ever used.
Semi-Pro Tip: If you’re dealing with a worn, but not rounded nut or bolt and don’t have a specialized set like the Capri wrenches, the DeWalt and GearWrench ratcheting wrenches tend to fit tighter than most standard wrenches and have less of a chance of rounding, but they are not meant for high torque. Still, they have a great warranty...
Flex Head Ratchets: Tekton SRH92004 - Not only are these a good upgrade over the standard DeWalt’s at 90T, but their low profile and flex heads make them useful in tight, awkward spaces.
If you have the budget, get the Gearwrench 120XP set. With 120T and 3 degree arc, these are the best on the market, even at such a cheap price for a set. I’d take these even over a pro-set from Snap-On. Watch Slickdeals for big sales on these; I got my full 4 piece set for $100.
I (Dan) recently broke my Tekton 90T 3/8” ratchet while doing a brake job, BUT, they did send a replacement with no-questions-asked as soon as I filled out the form. For the money I am still happy with them, but I they’re definitely not as stout as the GearWrench set and you should know their limitations. More teeth usually equals lower torque. The GearWrench set is more stout because it’s uses two 60 tooth pawls, vs the single, finer, 90T gearset other wrenches use.
Sockets: Milwaukee 3/8" Drive Metric Set - If you bought either set above you don’t technically need these, but we included them because the best tool set you can buy is the one you make yourself. We chose this set exclusively for two reasons: the socket shape prevents them from rolling away and the included ratchet is a 90 tooth. While this is by no means cheap at $110, you can often find it on sale for $80, and these should be a once-in-a-lifetime purchase for a standard 3/8 socket set (which you will likely use the most).
Torque Wrenches: EP Auto 1/2” 25-250 ft.-lb., 3/8” 10-80 ft.-lb., and 1/4” 20-200 in.-lb. - We’re going to let you in on a little secret: all cheap torque wrenches are pretty much the same, but they’re good enough for most home projects. The trick is to store them properly mainly.. or spend $600+ per wrench and get Snap-On wrenches (and still store them properly). These basic EP Auto wrenches come with a nice little case, and get you close enough, but they are a little tough to read at a glance. Motorcycle owners will need the 1/4” wrench for almost every project.
For an upgrade pick, we recommend the DeWalt DWMT75462. While the BEST torque wrench on the market by just about every test and mechanic we talk to is indeed the $450+ Snap-On wrenches, the DeWalt at only $150 gets you within 1% of torque consistently and is perfect for a premium, home mechanic wrench, though we do find it a little hard to read at a glance.
For owners of vehicles with centerlock wheels, the wrench you want is the Precision Instruments C4D600F36H 3/4" Drive Torque Wrench and Breaker Bar Combo Pack. At the time of writing it’s on backorder from Amazon and most suppliers and it typically runs about $500. It breaks down small enough to keep with you, and speaking from experience, you need to take it with you on road trips. Sorry, you gotta pay to play!
Finally, if you’ve got the cash and really want the best wrench on the market, this is it - Snap-On TECH3FR250, but we genuinely don’t think you need it unless you do this for a living. and you probably want to talk to Snap-On about what wrench is right for you as they have about 50 to choose from.
Breaker Bars: Neiko 1/2” and Neiko 3/8” - A breaker bar needs to be two things for 99% of jobs - strong and long. These are CHEAP and we have torture tested the hell out of them, hitting them with sledge hammers, adding on extended tubes, you name it, these hold up. Important note, because it needs to be said, DO NOT TIGHTEN NUTS AND BOLTS WITH BREAKER BARS! We found that out the hard way… probably 4 times.
Nut Drivers: Tekton 26984 - These are a lot nicer than others I've found due to the depth inside to fit over bolts, which you’ll quickly find is an essential feature.
Screwdriver Set: Craftsman CMHT65046 - We exclusively recommend the Craftsman screwdrivers due to the fact that a wrench fits over the handle, they’re tough and therefore don’t crack or sheer easily, and they’re easy to identify by handle color versus just markings on the end. As an added bonus, this set also comes with picks! Sure there are better quality screwdrivers out there, but some of mine are over 30 years old and still going strong.
Precision Screwdrivers: Wera Kraftform - After bending and rounding the tips of several cheap sets, I finally stepped up and bought a high quality set. While you’ll likely never bend the tips adjusting your glasses screws; you may find old rusted screws in odd places around your vehicle or house. This is the last set you’ll ever need so you may as well just buy it once.
Hand Impact Screwdriver: Tekton 2905 - For those of you who have ever dealt with a stuck brake disc screw or a rusted out screw, you know this is the “thank God I have that tool!” kind of tool. We’ve also found this handy when having to slot stuck bolts with a cutting wheel then using the flathead.
T-Handle Hex Keys: Craftsman CMHT26001 - This seems kind of redundant to have all these hex keys on this list, and you can certainly get by using the sockets in most cases where limited access isn’t a concern, but motorcycle owners especially will find these invaluable. They’re also handy for putting together furniture and other equipment. This set hits the right spot for quality and price and my original set is over 25 years old.
Plier Set: Channellock Set - I originally had some cheap Kobalt pliers on this list, but after the cutters dulled and the pliers broke (after 5 years mind you), I upgraded to this set and cannot believe how much of an upgrade in quality this was.
Snap Ring Plier Set: Workpro 4 Piece Set - For occasional use this set will work fine. The tolerance isn’t great and the handle material is cheap, but the tips have held up just fine over the years and that’s the most important factor in snap ring pliers. If you use these a lot, then it’s probably worth it to spring for the GearWrench set. Outside of that, unless you have a specialized use, I’ve never needed anything beyond a basic 4 piece set.
Locking Pliers (Vise-Grips): Malco LP10WC - You can pick up basic vise grips anywhere, but they usually suck due to poor tolerance, teeth that shear, and they don’t lock very tight. This is a tool you only need to buy once, and never again, as long as you buy the Malcos.
Rounded Nut/Bolt Extractor Set: Rocketsocket 13 Piece 3/8” Drive - In another case of “you get what you pay for” this is another buy it once and never again toolset, and it’s not worth buying a cheaper set. It’s also one of those things that the first time you need it you will be so glad you bought it. Of all the ones on the market, Rocketsocket holds up to serious abuse, even on really over-torqued, rounded nuts and bolts.
Tap & Die Set: Neiko 00908A - Tap & Die sets sort of have a rule - you get the best one you can afford. There are huge differences in quality of the steel used to create them and that is typically what you’re paying for. This one is the best for the sub $100 point I can find and for occasional home use it will do the job fine. Again, this is not a pro-level set by any means, and we know that. We used to recommend the Irwin brand, but they have since changed manufacturers and it’s no better than any other brand now.
Wire Strippers: Irwin Automatic and Manual Wire Strippers - You’ll want both for quick work and precision work, so get the set and save a little cash. Automatic wire strippers are life changing, and one of those tools that will make your friends say “Whoa, those are cool!” if they’ve never used them.
Heat Gun: Wagner Electrical Heat Gun - While heat guns have a lot of uses, this one is specific to electrical work and it’s ideal for heat shrink tubing and low heat solder connections.
Interior Trim Removal Tools: Mictuning 21 Piece Kit - From mounting radar detectors, to dash cams, to stereo installs, and more, you’ll need an interior trim kit. There are tons of these on the market, but this set has a nice compact case and holds up to years of abuse.
Magnetic Pickup Tools: Flexible w/Claw and Telescoping Pen Type - The first one is my go to when I just drop a socket or bolt down an engine bay. The second is your basic, pen type magnet tool and ideal for leaving in the car or having in your coveralls pocket while you work.
Wire Connectors: Soft Solder Connectors - Crimping days are in the past! Well, mainly, but these handy little connectors make a perfect connection and are our go to for connecting lights and any other wires together.
Wire Brush Set: AFUNTA Brush Set - Let me be real clear, these are junk brushes. I use these for cleaning up brake and suspension components, and that’s it, but I use them all the time and then toss them. For proper cleaning you want to see our friends at Griots Garage, but for throw away junk you don’t care about, get these.
Grease Guns and Fitting: UTool 8,000 PSI, DeWalt DCGG571B, Lock-N-Lube Fitting - I hate grease guns. They all leak, period. That said, store them in a plastic bag in your garage and the Lock-n-Lube fitting is a must. You also need to Teflon tape all the fittings. If you have a lot of equipment or off-road a lot, get the DeWalt gun. I’ve found it’s the best automatic gun for the money and if you’re not using it often then you’re not using it enough. The Lock-N-Lube fitting is great for keeping grease in the fitting and not all over everything else. As far as the UTool gun, I’ve found every cheap grease gun is about the same.
Brake Tools: Ares 18028 / Lang Tools 279-5420 / Performance Tool W80112 - We do A LOT of brake jobs, so we have a variety of tools to do them. Most of the time, the Ares and the Lang will get the job done on 99% of vehicles with basic brakes (even on my C6 Z06). I’d recommend you watch a YouTube video of your brakes being done before doing them (or agreeing to help a friend with theirs) and see which tools are needed to save you some time.
Scan Tools: Foxwell NT624 - If you have an Android device laying around you can get a Bluetooth adapter and read most codes, however, if you are looking to actually service your vehicle and reset an oil light, update service interval, reset the emergency parking brake, or clear airbag codes, you need a proper (and expensive) scan tool like the Foxwell NT624, which is the bare minimum price point we’ve found for reliable updates and a device that’s actually easy to use.
If you just want to do the rear brakes for a newer VW/Audi/Etc with electronic parking brakes, DO NOT manually force the caliper piston back! You just need this service tool: Ancel VD500. You should ask whoever you’re helping to chip in a few bucks to offset the cost on this.
Roll Pin Punch Set: Horusdy 9 Piece Set - For the basic home mechanic, you’ll be using these mainly for knocking out caliper pins and stuck bolts. If you’re into gunsmithing you’ll also find these useful.
If you find yourself needing a high precision set for gunsmithing, cutting metal, or just want to buy a very high quality tool, the Gearwrench 82306 set is every bit as good as any other expensive set with high quality steel and precise measurements.
When using a Roll Pin Punch, you typically want to use a soft mallet vs a hard hammer for better energy transfer. We use the Tekton 30812 and it’s held up great!
Oil Filter Wrench and Sockets: Tekton 5866 Wrench / Gearwrench 41890 Sockets - First and foremost I always use the Gearwrench sockets to remove an oil filter, but in the rare case one of these 6 sockets doesn’t fit, I have the wrench as backup.
Gimbal Ratchets: Gearwrench 81027 & 81270 - These seem like a gimmick until you are in a tight space at an awkward angle and need leverage. Great for interior screws, working in core supports for hood latches, or between body panels.
Utility Knife: Milwaukee 48-22-1901 - I really love the built in wire stripper, comfortable grip, bright red color so I can always find it, and easy to change blades. These go on sale pretty often for 2 for $20 at Home Depot as well.
Razor Blades: Dewalt Carbide (50 pack) - I specifically recommend the DeWalt carbide blades as they tend to be significantly sharper and longer lasting than any other blade I’ve ever tried, and buying them in bulk is about a 2 year supply for me!
Tape Measure: Stanley Fat-Max - The tests are true. This thing is solid with excellent bend resistance and it’s accurate! Which you’d think would be a given, but turns out it’s not as common as you think. These go on sale pretty often and obviously come in many different lengths, but the 25’ seems to be the sweet spot for size and length for me. I have about 10 tape measures at this point, and this one is still my go-to.
Essential Hammers:
Dead Blow Hammers: Tekton 30709 - Dead blows come in handy for lots of things, but especially that final blow needed for a ball joint or stuck rotor. You can get away with just one heavy one, but I’ve found a cheap set useful for different spaces I work in.
Mini Sledge Hammer: Craftsman 4lb Demolition Hammer - As the name implies, this is that tool you don’t want to admit you use, but you end up using a lot. If you find yourself needing one of these often, I recommend you upgrade to an air hammer, which is cheap and GREAT for popping ball joints!
Rubber Mallet: Tekton 16oz / 32oz - Available in 16 and 32oz, this mallet I can safely say we have absolutely torture tested. I’ve chunked a few when being stupid and hitting sharper things than I should, but the fiberglass has never slivered or broken and it’s great for massaging metal parts into place! Having both, I do use the 32oz more than the 16oz, typically reserving the 16oz for aluminum parts and the 32oz for steel.
Double-Faced Mallet: Tekton 30812 - We use this mallet for driving in brake pins, tapping screwdrivers, and other applications where you don’t want a lot of force and also don’t want to slip and damage something like a nice painted caliper. File this one under “having the right tools for the job.”
Tool Accessories, Bits, and Chemicals
Drill Bit Sets: Neiko Step Drill Bits and DeWalt Impact Ready Bits - Why two sets? Well, the step bits are awesome for quick drilling into really tough surfaces (like a frame) and the smaller bits are perfect for more precise drilling. The only thing I’ve found these won’t do is masonry.
Hex and Torx Bits: Neiko Hex, SAE, and Metric - From assembling furniture to quick disassembly of brake calipers, these handy bits help get the job done quickly when combined with the DeWalt impact driver listed above.
Long Hex Bit Driver Set: Tekton 3/8” Set - Unfortunately the need for extended length hex bits in driver form comes up at the worst time. Most of the time you can get by with an extension and a short bit, but you motorcycle wrenchers will understand immediately why these are handy.
1/2” Drive Impact Socket Sets: Neiko SAE and Metric - I have a set of cheap impact sockets that are over 20 years old, so unless you lose them you will probably never buy them again, even the cheap ones. These are essential with an impact like the 1/2” models above since you will crack regular sockets when slamming them at full power on a stuck nut or bolt. If you’re wondering why you see sets that are hundreds of dollars, it’s tolerances. Typically the more you pay, the better they fit, and you may want to consider buying a specific wheel socket set.
Triple Square Socket Set: Neiko 20pc Set - If you’re doing a lot of work on European cars you will need a triple square set in your arsenal, even for basic maintenance like brake jobs. For the price, we like the Neiko set since it has long and short sockets. Worth noting this is not an impact rated set, but we have also never needed one.
Wheel Socket Set: OEMTools 24224 - If you have nice wheels, you want to keep them protected. This is a nice, smaller set you can grab a glance to remove or torque down your wheels without the risk of damage. I’ve found a lot of rim protector sockets have been too thick to use, but this set is particularly thin. Do NOT use these with an impact wrench! Hand tools only.
Impact Socket Adapters: Ares ARES 22011 & 22012 & - I probably have 20 black socket adapters rolling around, but these are the set I use 99.9% of the time. The main thing is these are color coded so I know which one I’m grabbing at a glance, and this includes 3” and 6”, saving me from requiring an extension many times. These are sold as a set, but it’s cheaper to buy them separately for some reason. This is the perfect pairing for the DeWalt Stubby Impact Driver.
Fuses: EPAuto UL Rated Assorted Fuses - Think of this link more as a placeholder as you will need various fuse types depending on your vehicles. The main thing to note is that you want UL rated fuses, not just any cheap fuses. I have had cheap fuses fail prematurely due to simply poor construction and for just a few dollars more you can get OEM rated fuses.
Tire Inflator: Jaco Digital Tire Inflator - While I normally don’t recommend digital gauges, it is handy for home use. Just make sure you check those batteries for acid leakage over time.
Brake Parts Lubricant: Permatex 80653 - This bottle should last you almost a lifetime as a home mechanic. This lube works excellent for every brake job I’ve done and I love the brush applicator in the bottle. It may be tempting to get the cheaper 24125 formula, but it will swell brake pin boots, which is exactly where you usually need this stuff most! That stuff is for older vehicles only unfortunately.
Anti-Seize: Permatex 80078 - I practically paint hubs with this stuff so the rotor never rusts solid to the hub again and it’s good for bolts you don’t want to seize up with a lot of weather exposure.
Brake Cleaner: CRC Brakleen - Non-flammable, which is nice, and cleans up even the most gunked on parts. I order it by the case since it doesn’t go bad. DO NOT USE ON PAINTED CALIPERS and WEAR PPE! This stuff is toxic! It smells bad for a reason!
Grease: Lucas Red & Tacky #2 or Valvoline Full Synthetic - Currently unavailable by single canister on Amazon, but available at basically every big box and auto parts store, we believe the tests that Lucas Red & Tacky #2 and Valvoline Full Synthetic are about the best out there. I torture test grease on my motorcycles and off-road outings as they are constantly being soaked in water and this stuff always holds up. Grease is not just grease, and at such a cheap item it’s not worth saving a few bucks to get substandard greases that washes away.
Self Etching Primer: Rust-Oleum Self Etching Primer (Gray) - If you ever grind on metal you need to do rust prevention. As long as you keep these cans relatively warm and the nozzles clean, they will last for years on a shelf, so I always have a can handy, just in case. As long as you prime you can give yourself a little time to get the right color you need without worrying about rust forming.
Scotch-Brite Red pads are what you need for a quick scuff before priming. They’re also really handy for cleaning up bare metal suspension parts, exhaust manifolds, and anything else you plan to paint. Do NOT use them on glass, these will scratch glass!
Air Fittings: ColorFit 1/4” NPT Fittings - Most air tools come with fittings, but not all. I always keep these in a drawer and even change out the fittings on some tools. These are color coded for quick size identification and they never rust.
For Teflon tape, I now use Melrose Blue Monster, which works much better then standard Teflon tape on everything. I keep some in the house for bathroom fittings, but it’s perfect for air tools as well.
Air Hose: Flexzilla 50’ 1/4 Air Hose - While you don’t need to upgrade your air hose that came with your compressor, this one is a lot easier to wrangle around the shop and in spite of it’s softer jacketing it actually has held up to being ran over multiple times. At $20, we think it’s a worthy upgrade. We also use Flexzilla Garden hoses now that they have improved the design.
The Other Essentials
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): DeWalt Goggles, NoCry Safety Glasses, Ammex Gloveworks Gloves, Dickies Coveralls - Look, we know you don’t want to wear it, but safety gear is essential when you’re working under your car. Between getting dust or worse in your eyes, chemicals that burn, and cuts on your hands, this stuff matters and you’ll actually want to wear the good stuff. Ammex gloves are pricier than most, but they hold up to all sorts of chemicals and have good grip, so you’ll replace them less. When it comes to grinding or high dust, I actually prefer goggles for comfort and keeping dust out, and when I’m doing a basic job I just put the glasses on. We hope you will too.
Headlamp: Black Diamond Spot 350 - I’ve been running this headlamp for about 10 years now and it’s never let me down, even after cracking the lens! It’s bright, has great battery life, and is completely waterproof. It’s also easy to use with gloves on.
Floor Jack: Pittsburgh 3-Ton Rapid Pump - …Or whatever Harbor Freight jack you find on sale that has enough capacity to lift your vehicle. I’d love to post an affiliate link here, but the fact is Harbor Freight is the way to go. As far as low profile, rapid pump, aluminum vs steel, etc, etc, all of those features are nice to have, but as long as it has the right capacity to lift your vehicle and fits under it, it hardly matters and quality rarely varies from brand to brand. My old Harbor Freight is still going strong in spite years of abuse from humidity, not lubing it enough, and not changing the pump oil when I should.
Jack Stands: Torin BIG RED T43002A Double Locking Jack Stands - You can get away with just about any jack stands as long as they are the proper weight rating for your vehicle. The Torin jack stands we have listed here are double locking, for an extra margin of safety that we think is worth it! As far as Harbor Freight goes, two kinds of jack stands were recalled in 2020, then recalled AGAIN! So yeah, we’re done with HF when it comes to stands. For such a vital piece of equipment for safety, we wouldn’t use them even if they gave them to us.
Portable Storage: DeWalt Tough System 2.0 Boxes - Hands down, these are the best storage boxes we have ever used. They’re tough as nails, stack together, lockable, and are relatively inexpensive. And yes, we think these are better than the prettier Milwaukee boxes even.
Shop Stool: Griots Garage Sit-On Creeper II - I have had my Griots Creeper and Stool for over 25 years, and this is the next evolution. Buy it once, keep it forever.
Creeper: Griots Garage Cadillac of Creepers - The “family creeper” in the Putnam household is over 25 years old now and you guessed it, it’s this exact creeper. You can get by with a cheaper creeper, but if you want the best one around that’ll last you a lifetime too, it’s this one right here.
Bench Vise: Yost 4” Workshop Duty Vise - I have always been tempted to buy a bigger vise, but I’ll be honest, I’ve never actually needed one. This little guy has been big enough for any and all basic automotive work I’ve done over the years, but you may have a use for a larger one depending on the work you do.
Tool Box: Big and Heavy Duty - There’s no link here because it’s so subjective. Whatever you get, get the next bigger size of the one you planned on and make sure you get the heavy duty version of whatever kind you buy. We’ve had drawers break from weight and we ALWAYS run out of space after a few years, so go big! Dan has a 46” Husky (90382) that has a broken top drawer and is bursting at the seems. Nick has a Milwaukee (48-22-8510-8520) that looks oddly good in his living room and is very high quality. It’s still too small. Dan upgraded to this 72” Husky Heavy Duty workbench, mainly due to it’s size, but it’s still not even close to big enough anymore so another one will be coming during the next sale.
If you have a tool box delivered, be sure to unwrap it as it arrives and check for damage! Shipping isn’t kind to tool boxes.
Hand and Tool Cleaner: Scrubs in a Bucket - These will take everything from paint to heavy grease off your hands and tools with ease and without water!
Battery Charger and Maintainer: CTEK MXS 5.0 - It’s inevitable that at some point you’re going to have a dead battery in either your car, motorcycle, lawn mower, or maybe even your generator for some irony. We believe the best one overall is the CTEK MSX 5.0. I’ve had my CTEK charger since 2009, when it was left in the trunk of my C6 Corvette, and it’s still going strong with no problems.
For maintaining a constant charge on motorcycles other power equipment the CTEK listed above will definitely do the job, but the BatteryTender Jr is my go to, with the one I bought 20 years ago still going strong through all sorts of temperature changes, drops, power outages, and more. Worth noting this new 800a model also charges Lithium batteries; a worthy upgrade for saving weight in a motorcycle.
The Stuff You Want and Probably Don’t Need
Oil and Fluid Extractor: Mightyvac MV7300 - From engine oil, to transfer cases, to brake and clutch fluid, this little guy does it all with ease and makes for almost no mess. Add this to the list of tools you wish you had known about from the start to save time and mess. I prefer the pneumatic version since I can just hook it up to an air compressor and let her rip, but the manual one is more portable. You do you.
Heater: Mr. Heater F242540 - This propane tank top heater will heat your garage within minutes with it’s massive heat output. You’ve probably seen this little guy in action if you joined us for an Avants Off-Road event and been very pleased it was doing so well to keep you warm.
Please read the warnings related with this heater! When used properly we absolutely love this little guy, but it is an open flame heater that consumes oxygen! Ventilation is critical!
QuickJack: QuickJack 5000TL and 7000TL - If you don’t have the space for a true lift, which is infinitely better, these are your new best friends. From repairs, to tire rotations, to oil changes, to detailing, QuickJacks make just about every job easier, even if they do take a few minutes to get set up properly on your own. These may as well be a Costco exclusive item as they are typically about $300-500 cheaper there. You’ll want the 5000 series for smaller cars and the 7000 series for light trucks, but note that you still may need the frame extension kit for long body cars like Camaros. Those are oddly about $100 cheaper on average at Home Depot.
Hammer and Dolly Set: Performance Tool M7007 - From taking out trail damage to shaping metal components that were damaged in shipping, this oddity of the tool box comes in handy more than you think. If you’re not a pro, even a very basic, lower quality set like this will do the job you need to get metal into shape. I used this to fix a damaged toolbox, metal shop cabinets, a John Deere metal grass bin, and some fender damage, all of which would have been extremely difficult or impossible without it. It’s also just a fun thing to learn how to use.